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Ask ten people what they remember most about Jaipur, and at least half will mention the markets before they mention the forts. There’s a reason for that. The old city was laid out in the eighteenth century by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, and the bazaars from that era are still doing business in more […]

I still remember standing at the base of Amber Fort, sweating in the March heat, wondering if the climb was worth it. It was. Jaipur does this thing where every fort or palace makes you rethink the last one, because they’re all trying to do something different. One’s about defense, another’s about showing off, another […]

A lot of people assume covering Jaipur and Agra in a single day is too rushed to be worth it. It isn’t, really – not if you get the timing right. The two cities are close enough, and the road between them good enough, that the whole thing comes down to leaving early and not […]